Rats

I don't think that rats are very lovable, even though people keep them as pets. Mind you, these are nicely sanitized creatures compared to the wild brown rat. This little fellow is linked to some of man's greatest moments of squalor, like the Black Death and the trenches during World War One. Outbreaks of bubonic plague are now rare, but rats still carry diseases, like tetanus and Weil's syndrome, both of which can kill.

Obviously you don't mess with rats, but if one bites you see your doctor straight away. It is these undesirable aspects that make people dislike rats so much. Even though they're clean little animals, the diseases they carry are about as appalling as the filthy places where they live - sewers, rubbish dumps, and neglected areas. During the summer, rats spend quite a lot of time in the fields, often in colonies along the banks of ditches. Then they aren't easy to shoot because the cover is generally too long, although a bit of pruning will improve your chances of a clear shot.

You should remember that rats are fair game to cats, owls, and foxes. This is quite enough reason for them to be very shy at times. Once the cover goes, many rats make tracks to farm buildings and similar sheltered areas where they can spend the winter in dry, comfortable conditions, with plenty of food close by. This migration starts soon after harvest time, especially if heavy rains come early. You'll notice the occasional specimen that has been flattened on the road. You don't have to wait until this late in the year to get to grips with rats, lots of them linger around farm buildings throughout the year. It is here that they do most damage, especially to sackfuls of feed and seed, and most farmers would prefer to be without them. Whether or not you'll be allowed to shoot around the farmyard is something else again.

Some farmers may have visions of you blinding the cowman, causing hugely expensive claims for damages. A lot depends on the farm, though. Modern farm buildings and yards consist of areas of solid concrete. This denies rats the cluttered corners and overgrown ditch banks where they build up stable warrens. However, there are still plenty of scruffy, old-fashioned farms around. When shooting rats around farm buildings, you probably won't want a powerful rifle because of the danger of ricochets in a confined space. This applies particularly when shooting inside barns.

Rats live among the rafters as much as under the walls, so frequently you will be presented with opportunities to swat them out of the roof. If the gun is too powerful, you could end up smashing tiles. Even worse, you may break a window. If broken glass falls among hay for feed, you'll have to explain it to an angry farmer. First, you have to find your stock of rats. Look for their runs, holes, droppings, and for signs of foraging. The classic case of the nibbled sack, with corn running out of the hole, is only too familiar to farmers everywhere.

Indeed, these animals are so indiscreet that they readily give away their presence. You have to study them, though, just like any other wild animal, if you're to have worthwhile shooting instead of a long, lonely wait. They're pretty active by day and by night. It all depends on the amount of disturbance they are subjected to, so obviously this has to be borne in mind. However, rats become most active once the sun has set. Get up on the bales of sweet-scented hay and wait for the action. Settle yourself comfortably, for under these conditions you can ensure maximum steadiness by shooting from the field target competitor's sitting position, or by using a bale as a rest.

Below you, in the pens, calves are settling for the night, and the piglets have gone into a huddle in a straw-filled corner. Apart from the occasional contented grunt or soft rustling, all is quiet. A lone bulb hangs low from the rafters of this ancient, flint barn. At its opposite end, just twenty yards away, the feed milling machine lies silent in the cold glare at the lamp. Beside it stands a wide, stone-walled bay. It's piled with barley - and rat droppings. And there's the first. Keeping close to the wall, a dark shape comes sidling out of the darkened corner, heading for the bay.

Through the scope you can see it scuttling a few feet, then stopping to case the joint, its bright eyes and twitching whiskers reaching out for signs of danger. Center the cross-hairs just below the ear and a little in front. The back legs twitch a couple of times, but it's all over.

Moments later, a movement from on top of the wall beside the bay catches your eye. There's another one, sitting on the edge of the shadows in the corner, hunched up and watching, its scaly tail drooping over the side of the wall. Through the scope you see not one, but two rats, one partly hidden by the other, and it looks like the front one is staring straight at you. Disconcerting though it is, it's just coincidence. There's no way the big old critter could detect you. Center the crosshairs between its eyes and squeeze before it shuffles away. With a reflex leap it jumps into the bay and sprawls amid the barley. At the same time there's a terrified shriek as the other rat races along the wall and dives for one of the emergency exits.

Don't break cover, though. Ten minutes later, another rat comes out, this time from the same corner as the first one. Seeing the first corpse, it stops and goes to investigate. It seems to be sniffing it most intently. Through the scope you observe just how repulsive rats really are - this one is lapping the blood of its fallen comrade - much more nourishing than barley. Keep a steady bead and make sure it catches the next shuttle to the great sewer in the sky.

It's a good sport for two people on a winter's evening, and bags of a couple of dozen or more are common. It trains you to shoot quickly. You can set up the same type of baited trap in deserted buildings, rubbish tips and other rat havens.

pigeon shooting tips

Now you know how to set up your decoy in most winds here is another important point: always make sure your decoys heads face into the wind, not in regimental fashion but so that the majority face into the wind and the rest are semi sideways.

Get a good seat or folding stool (fishing chairs are good) to sit on. You may also want to use a cushion as comfort affects your shooting and also means that you don't end up with sore knees or bum at the end of the day.

Often on a bright day many want to reach for the sunglasses when they are going out shooting. However this can have adverse effects. This is because the lenses and frames glint - alerting birds to your presence- and black glasses on a white face is even more menacing to a woodie than just a white face on its own. If you must shade your eyes, then wear a wide brimmed hat as this will also disguise your face just make sure that it is in a dull colour.

Everyone knows that the best decoys that you can get are the 'real McCoys' but if you have to use decoys to get the ball rolling . I recommend sticking on wings, tail feathers and even normals feathers as this obviously prevents glinting and makes even shell decoys look more impressive. Read the crops to watch section as this tells you what crops the pigeons 'should' be feeding on!

When you have shot birds you need to prop at least 50% of their heads up to look natural like a feeding flock. Instead of searching for a forked twig instead go to your local supermarket- you can buy 100 kebabs sticks for £1, and they are perfect for the job!

In the summer or during a spell of hot weather it isn't possible to simply put the pigeons down in the garage. Otherwise ovenight they will all become 'fly blown' and will rot in the warm weather anyway. If you've got a large number and can't be bothered to pluck them all then stack the pigeons in bread tray breast upwards then cover the whole thing with damp sack cloth. Then take them as soon as possible to your gamedealer or pluck and freeze them a.s.a.p the next morning to stop the meat from going bad.

A covering of snow is a mixed blessing with pigeon shooting. It channels all the pigeons into a few fields where the crop is still poking through however the white covering makes it very difficult for them to see decoys. For this reason it is better to try and get under a flightline instead. Another trouble is that you and your hide will stick out like a sore thumb you can wear a cheap pair of cotton overalls to stop this problem and for the hide simply use one or two dust sheets draped over any suitable objects.

Next the blueing of your gun (the black barrels) is a dead giveaway so you can buy camo/realtree tape £6.00 ish to cover the barrel. Also use scrim to berak-up the hard lines of your rifle.

Place a few woodies in a "V" shaped pattern with the tip of the "v" facing in to the wind remembering to put them "head down" as if they were eating. Don't do too many like this as it could have the opposite affect ,making the woodies coming in think the flock is already too big and they may turn and fly away. I have found that 20-30 deeks are fine if arranged correctley but use the same "v" pattern.

Hide Shooting and how its done

This involves using arranged materials to simulate a natural appearance, so enabling you to set up a comfortable and concealed shooting base within range of your targets, without arousing their suspicions.

The first factor in hide building is location. If the hide is 50 yards from the field where your quarry lurk, you aren't going to have much success. Observation is the key to a successful placement- remember that wind and weather may have an effect on where your quarry will be, and if the wind changes you don't want to send your scent to them. Prowl the area in full camouflage, but only take binoculars- watch where game congregates, then search for a suitable site there. The ideal hide has a hunting field of less that 180°, as it is tiring and awkward to turn yourself and the rifle to check if anything is behind you (not just to check for opportunities, but to check if anything is creeping up on you, it may raise a racket that will warn your intended quarry).

The best start to a hide is a natural hide, e.g. a fallen oak tree. A few pieces of suitable vegetation (preferably natural to the area) can then be woven in to cover any obvious gaps, but leaving sufficient space for a good field of fire. (Thistles are good for this- they don't take much careful arrangement, but a decent thickness will give you good camouflage). Failing this, a piece of camouflage netting is another good base. Size depends entirely on the area that you need to cover, but too large is always better than too small- you can tuck the edges under tree limbs or peg them down, making a better hide anyway. The better types of cam netting have scrim sown to the panels. Scrim is strips or leaf shapes of cammo material, and when out hunting, they blow in the wind and looks like leaves, branches etc. However, before using a scrim net, it is wise to blend the colours and get rid of any "shop" smell. To do this, leave the net out in the vegetable patch (or any other suitable patch of moist, muddy ground) for a month or 2, trampling and turning it occasionally. The colours will blend and flow, and the harsh outlines of the net panels will be softened by mud patches etc.

Two of the most important points in hide building are backlighting and removal of any hard, unnatural lines. Backlighting is one of the most important factors when hunting any creature with good eyesight (e.g. crows). No matter how good your hide, there have to be gaps in it to put your rifle through, and if the sun shines through these from the back of the hide (usually less well built), then any movements you make are as plain as though projected onto a white screen. Make sure you cover the back of the hide too, especially if hunting with the sun behind you. The hard shape of your rifle can be softened with strips of excess cammo material, or even loose bits of scrim. (Just a couple of panels around butt and barrel, and leave some bits dangling). Another use for any left over scrim is to fix it around your scope front lens with an elastic band to dull the glint when the sun catches it. If you use black stocking material, you can actually fix a couple of thicknesses over the front lens, and still see sufficient of your quarry. (Make sure you can still shoot accurately after any modifications of your kit, no matter how small- you don't want to find that you actually put the scrim too far over the lens and can't actually see anything out in the field!)

Crosman King Ratcatcher Co2 .22 Air Rifle
The 2250XT, nicknamed King Ratcatcher, comes complete with the AirSource power system and some engineering changes such an improved bolt design. You will get up to 250 shots from the Airsource power system. This King Ratcatcher model delivers a powerful down range force due to the barrel velocity and the .22 calibre pellet. If you are looking for a light weight, accurate and high quality air rifle, then the King Ratcatcher is your best choice. Comes complete with one 88grm Co2 bottle and bottle cover. Features Single shot pellet Bolt action cocking ABS stock & forehand Weight 5lbs .Manual safety Fully rifled steel barrel

Weihrauch HW80 .22 Air Rifle

Nicknamed 'The Workhorse', the HW80 is one of the best break-action air rifles available. Power, accuracy and dependability. The HW80 has all three. The Monte Carlo beech stock makes it easy to shoot accurately, and the checkered pistol grip and rubber buttpad deliver ultimate control. Hunt, plink or pop paper targets all day long with this spring-piston breakbarrel wonder that changed the airgunning world. The HW80 is very robust in construction and combines excellent accuracy with extraordinary efficiency.FeaturesSingle shot, break barrelLow recoilFull length beech stock chequered gripOpen sightsOverall Length: 115cm approxWeight: 7.7lbsBarrel length: 50cm

HW80K TASCO 3-9X40IR AND A PARKER HALE SILENCER

just a few pics of the rifles i have now and if anyones interested in a swop for a pcp let me know.

king Ratcatcher co2 .22 asi 4x30 scope and silencer .70 yard lamp fitted King Ratcatcher, Walther cp88 and weihrauch hw80k



hw80k

Another days shoot.

Mine is the bottom rifle, the one with the black strap

To successfully hunt rabbits you must be of a patient nature, especially if you are using a air-rifle, the weapons of choice for many hunters especially in the UK.

Rabbits are by their nature very wary animals, having so many natural predators has created in them an extremely honed survival instinct, so anything that looks out of place will be avoided for a long time until it becomes part of the natural background. Because of this good camoflague clothing is a must, by being able to blend into the natural vegetation is only to your advantage.
Before approaching your hunting area you must first check wind direction, always approach with the wind in your face wherever possible, your smell travels much further than you realise and this will cause your targets to dissapear way before you are anywhere near them. As you get closer to your hide area you will need to lower your body and create as low a profile as possible, not only will this help you to move closer towards your quarry but will also cause you to slow down your movements, and slow movements are vital to get you as close to the rabbits as possible.

OK, you are now in position, your rifle is loaded and you are taking aim, the kill zone of a fully grown rabbit is about the size of a clenched fist so now is not the time to practice your marksmen skills. You should by now be able to get at least 5 shots in a 5cm group from 30 yards, if not you should not be taking aim at any living creature. If you cannot achieve a clean kill then keep practicing on paper or knockdown targets until you can.

Many times when hunting rabbits you will be taking shots at a grazing rabbit, the kill zone is covered and you cannot guarantee a clean kill, I have found that by making a "tutting" noise the rabbit will raise its head, giving you enough time to take the shot. When using an air-rifle you may be able to bag more than one rabbit before the others turn and run for home.

When hunting, always remember to gain the landowners permission, a person running about a field in camoflague clothing and a rifle may creat the wrong kind of interest. Always remember to shoot responsibly, shoot safely and use your marksmenship principles to cause the least amount of suffering to the animals you are hunting.

open day/rough shoot

Hello to all.

I have an idea i want to run by you all.

We at D-V-S are looking into starting a monthly meet for all airgunners so we can have a get together/rough shoot. I am looking into the possibility of including stands from local gunshops like Drapers of Nottingham and Mansfield Gun Room who can provide help and advice to all shooters regardless of your limits, and possibly run some small friendly F.T competitions.
There will be a "enterance fee" (to help cover the rental of the field but we will publish more on that closer to the date) but this won't amount to more than £5.00. Also we are looking into launching a promotional "voucher" so if you print one off you will get in at a discounted price (£3.00).

Using the comments button at the bottom of this post let me know what you, the reader, think of this idea and also if you would attend such a meeting, as your views count.

Note regarding insurance: as we should all have some form of insurance I must insist that you must have your own cover (BASA/BASC ect) or the enterance cost will be much more.

Thanks again
Richard

Damn rain

Went out to survey the new shoot today, sun was shining down and not a cloud in the blue sky. Just the job for a spot of bunny bashing, as they venture out to warm there fur in the sun after another cold night, we were ready to cure all there cold problems with a well placed .22 superfield head shot. The hide was set and we settled down and waited for the bunnies to emerge. 40 yards to the right of us came the first lot of woodies ,closley followed by another "cloud"of pigeon so our attentions were fermly set on them. There were around the 500 mark that took off at once and if i had got a shotgun i would have had no problem bagging 5 or so with each barrel but as i only have a hw80k i tried my luck. One shot one kill, the "cloud" was so dense i knew that if i shot into this sea of grey i would hit one and i wasnt wrong. Tracking a nice fat one for about 40 yards as it approched us and taking the shot as it passed over the hide i hit it under the neck and scored yet another "on the wing shot".

The rabbits were eating the rape on the fields where we cant shoot so we waited to see if they would come back to us...but they were too happy in the sun.

We packed up our hide and set of back to my car just to find the rabbits were sitting in the yard where my car was parked ( another area where we cant shoot) so we moved on to another field in a hope to get a rabbit or two.

Not to be....as we got out of the car it began to rain ,very very hard and it was just us that were out there getting very very wet.

Better luck next time